Although the self tanning products were first introduced in the sixties, they did not enjoy the lofty sales the manufacturers' had hoped but instead gained a rather infamous reputation for being splotchy, orangey and smelly. Mention of Coppertone's first self-tanner, QT, 40 years later still produces exclamations about orange and streaky skin.  Now self tanners line the shelves across America at stores like Walgreens and Wal-Mart.  How do they work and how have they improved?
 
The tans of self tanning and airbrush tanning products are produced by a reaction between the sugar derivative, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), and the protein keratin found on the surface of the skin. The "browning" effect that results is a common chemical reaction between certain sugars and proteins called the "Maillard" reaction. Louis-Camille Maillard first described this process in 1912 and it is the cause of much of the browning that occurs during the manufacture and storage  of foods, including the golden brown color of beer. Master chefs have long understood and perfected the use of this reaction. Urban legends abound on how the reaction of dihydroxyacetone with the skin was discovered, some even claim that Hollywood stars knew about it in the 1920s. On skin, the  Maillard reaction takes 4 to 6 hours to visibly emerge into a golden tan. It then continues to develop over the next 24 hours. The color that results varies slightly from individual to individual, just as UV tans will differ, according to natural skin tones.  With some products lighter and darker shades can be achieved according to personal preference.
 
Quality and duration of the resulting tan are dependent on many factors. You want the "head chef's" attention to detail, not the fast-order cook's! Many salons offer a solution with a bronze tint, similar to the tanning creams. This tint is usually composed of either FDC colors, walnut or carmel. This bronze tint is for instant gratification only and does not contribute to the ultimate Maillard reaction. The tint can come off on clothes, linen, etc., and is easily washed out of most fabrics.  It will also wash off skin in the first shower.  Natural has no tint to impact aggressive work outs, under garments, dresses or linen.  A professional salon should offer the DHA solution in Natural also, to accommodate today's busy active lifestyles.
 
DHA products have improved in recent years and are light years away from the early days of Coppertone's QT.  Tans develop into more natural-appearing brown or golden hues, as opposed to the orange tones observed with the older formulations. Higher quality supplies of DHA and better technology allow better penetration and coverage of the skin.
 Although both UV and DHA tans occur on the outer layer of the skin called the epidermis, they are completely different processes. Whereas UV tans rely upon melanin to produce the tanning of the skin, DHA relies upon keratin proteins to produce the coveted shades of bronze. Read more about: The Suntan >>
 
The skin is the largest organ of the body. The outermost  layer, the epidermis, is the waterproof protector of the body against an invasion of bacteria, viruses, spores, toxins, contaminants and other attackers.  It serves not only as a barrier to keep fluids and salts in but to keep water and germs out.  Over a million new cells a day are produced in the bottom basil layer of the epidermis and they continually push the cells above them to the surface. These are kerotinocytes, comprising 85% of the cell mass, which have a primary function of producing and filling themselves with keratin proteins. As these cells move up, they die and flatten in shape. At the very surface of the skin they are little more than keratin scales which eventually flake off and reveal the layer below.  The oil, sebaceous and sweat glands combine to provide the oily encasements of the keratin as well as the acid mantle present on the surface of the skin. Oily characteristics promote water retention and the acid mantle protects against living organisms, such as bacteria and fungus.
 
The very outer layer of the epidermis, the corneum stratum, regenerates about every 2 weeks.  As DHA reacts with only the very surface layer of the outer corneum stratum and does not penetrate into this layer, a DHA tan depends on the condition and care of the very surface of the skin. As you can see, this surface is irregular, not smooth and uniform. The better the quality of the DHA product, as well as the condition of the skin and the proper preparation of the skin, the better the DHA tan. Tans will last anywhere from 4 or 5 days to well over a week, depending on the different variables of products and skin. Tans lasting up to two weeks are possible but only under ideal circumstances, including moisturizing and the use of extender lotions such as MAINTAIN.
 
Be aware that with any DHA tan, regardless of the brand, the tan does NOT provide UV protection. Sunscreens are still necessary. Read more about: Sun Bathing >>